Another birthday swings around, 31 – bugger me! I’m getting old. Val excelled with the presents she bought me. She started off by spreading them all out, wrapped in newspaper, 9 of them in all, + I had them doled out during the day. However, to keep things simpler, I’ll list them all now. There was: a paperback about Sarawak, “3 Came Home”; a Ying Yang writing pad with envelopes; a woollen bobble hat (not a great success – it might end its days as a tea-cosy); a Nepal board game, tigers + goats; a nicely-bound book of plain, locally-made paper; a tube of Pringle’s potato crisps; a woven bag (she bought herself a duffle-bag made of the same material; a waistcoat; + my favourite, a pocket backgammon set made of sandal-wood + ebony. All in all, a splendid assortment.

We breakfasted down at the Lunch Box, a most leisurely meal, after which we ambled over to the Telegraph Office, taking in the sights along the way – goats’ heads hanging from the doorways along Meat St; a wonderfully exuberant showman with many snakes + one nervous-looking assistant in the main square. I wanted to ring Mum, having failed last Christmas + on her birthday. Once again, tho’, it proved a frustrating + vain attempt. After nearly 2 hrs of waiting, I was rewarded with an unanswered dial tone. It would have been early morning in England, so I can only suppose she either popped over to the PO early, or she’s on holiday. Just about the only consolation was that I couldn’t possibly be in as bad a way as a Swedish guy who was there trying to ring home. I hope for his sake he was trying to arrange his journey back, as he was in a dreadful state. He could barely walk, his speech was slurred, + his mental processes were slowed down to an alarming degree. I don’t know enough about drugs to hazard a guess as to what it might be, but he must surely be on something. I like to dabble, but messing your brain up like that is not funny.
On the way back, we, or rather Val, took a lot of photos, trying desperately to finish the roll of black + white film we’ve put in, before, hopefully, selling the camera tomorrow. We wanted to get as many people shots as possible – the technique we used was for me to stand between Val + the subject, shielding her while she adjusted the focus etc, + then step aside just before she clicked the shutter. We got quite slick at it – whether the photos turn out to be any good is an entirely different matter. By the time we finally got back to the guest-house, it was quite late, + I was in a bit of a rush, hurriedly opening my remaining presents, having a shower + changing, + rolling + smoking a quick joint, putting me into a suitably festive mood.


After which Tom + Jan arrived, bearing birthday greetings + more presents – a small bottle of rum, a matchbox-full of Bob Hope, + the loan of their computer chess game until we left. I can’t help thinking there was a measure of calculation in at least the first 2 pressies however, as we immediately broke into both. This put everyone in a good mood, + off we trotted to the bar where we demolished the crisps as well as a couple of beers, + I started to tell the Pierre la Bear jokes, as culled from Phil. What with the booze, the dope, + the atmosphere, I was feeling very good, if ever so slightly extrovert + incoherent, in the way I become when under the influence of alcohol. As, indeed, did Dad. I am my father’s son, alright.
The meal too, at Naryans. Was very successful, with fine food, fine company. Even tho’ the conversation turned slightly more serious – we talked a good deal about babies, for some reason – it remained entertaining. We finished the evening in their rooms, playing backgammon, smoking, talking, until fatigue struck us all. Altogether, quite the best birthday party I’ve had for many years.
With the benefit of hindsight, I know this was my last birthday on the road, asnd most definitely the best yet. Some soplendid presents – I still have the backgammon – and a party to boot!
Plus all those black and white photos, some of which you have already seen, and most of which were splendid.



