The morning was brilliantly clear, so we could get views of both of the 2 dramatic skylines: in front of us Kanchanjunga + its neighbours, further west Everest + its. But even before we had started walking, the clouds had come crowding in – it was still a beautiful day. We just had a snack for breakfast, then set off, all except D + S, who insisted we go on ahead + that they would catch us up. (A little later on, when we had still not caught any glimpse of them, we suspected they may have turned back, especially in view of Dave’s current sullenness, but these suspicions were to prove groundless.) I took the front for the first section, striding out alone + feeling simply marvellous. At one for once with the world + myself. The first 45 mins or so the trail went steeply down, but it was climbing from then on for the rest of the day, sometimes gentle, sometimes steep. Stopped briefly at the bottom for a glass of warm milk, but later, just before our lunch, we were surprised to be caught up by a couple of Australian blokes, Dave + Bruce. They had set off much later than we had yesterday, + had spent the night at Rimbik, making up good time this morning.
The lunch break was pleasant, sitting outside a small stone cottage drinking many glasses of coffee, + (for Val + I) eating our bread + garlic sausage – we were a little worried that it might go off. The old man at the cottage advised us to take the short cut from there, rather than follow the jeep track, so we did. It probably saved us some time too, but in retrospect I think our problem was in expecting it to carry us further than it did, so that later on when we rejoined the jeep track we promptly dived off into the undergrowth again. All of us, all except D+ S, probably. We did meet one or 2 people along the path who seemed to suggest we were on the right path, but eventually it more or less petered out at an apparently deserted shack, the only creature in residence being an aggressive yak, which made several menacing moves towards Bruce, the only one among us foolhardy enough to venture near the brute.
After some deliberation, V, A + I followed on along the path B + D were forging ahead of us, , with Janet + Jenny in turn plodding along behind us. It was becoming clear to all that we were getting nowhere, when suddenly we heard whistles + shouts from the ridge-top way above us, + saw, before the cloud closed in + hid them from view, a couple of guys waving frantically. They were much too far away for me to be able to distinguish any clear meaning, but Bruce + Dave, who were nearer, seemed to think they were telling us to come up to where they were. That seemed a sensible interpretation, even if it did mean a long + difficult scramble up the steep hillside, as well as heading diagonally backwards. It was dispiriting stuff, our whole party spread out over a couple of hundred yards, but eventually we came across the front + around a high rock, + found ourselves on the jeep track. From there it was simply a plod, + not too severe a one, + I was surprised when we came over the brow of the hill, + saw the sign announcing that we had arrived at Sandakhphu.
It was a pleasant little community of a few houses sitting on the crest of a hill. We made immediately for the DIF (Development Improvement Fund) bungalow, altho’ Bruce, who had already booked a place there, seemed quite keen that we shouldn’t render his forward planning superfluous, + tried to encourage us to go to the barren-looking Youth Hostel. But the man in charge of the bungalow let us in, first only temporarily, + then, our occupation presenting a fait accompli, permanently. We were welcomed with a huge pot of tea, which we drank in the sun lounge looking out at the mountain tops, peeping out over the clouds. As usual, there was much evidence that the bungalow had once been comfortable, even luxurious, but was now suffering from serious neglect, had almost the air of an about to be demolished house on a building site. But some wood was fetched (I wasn’t one of the fetchers), + in next to no time things were improved several times over. I stationed myself right next to it, + proceeded to indulge in one of my favourite pastimes, gazing into a blazing log fire. In time (+ it was enough time for the whole room to be warmed up,) our dinner was brought, a splendid concoction of dhal, rice + curried potatoes. The most basic of meals really, but somehow magical. We were all sat around a huge table in jolly conviviality, with fire + candlelight. The meal over, we played a few table games – killer, water buffalo, King Rabbit – + then cards. I’ve never played Hearts with 9 before, but it worked reasonably well. Val was pipped at the post, keeping a clean sheet until the very last hand, when she was clobbered just sufficiently to be dragged down into 2nd place.
There were 2 bedrooms in the bungalow, but we shifted all the mattresses into the one, lit a fire in there too, + all piled in together, cramped + cosy + warm.
Apart from getting lost (something we are well accustomed to) really quite a pleasant and convivial day, made all the better by my improved health.
