We’d looked forward to returning to the dumpling shop for b’fast, so it was disappointing when we discovered that it was not yet serving. It proved difficult to find breakfast anywhere, if fact (+ I’ll admit we felt relief when the Swiss reported that the Western b’fast served in the hotel had not been up to much.) I ended up grabbing a bowl of noodles down by the stn just before we had to get back on the train. As usual, there was a mighty crowd for the train, but they were more restrained – or better restrained, I’m not sure which. We adopted our usual policy in such circumstances of making for the carriages at one end or the other, where the press is not quite so wicked. Even so, it was very cramped, so we considered ourselves excessively fortunate when a man who was soon to get off gave up his seat beforehand to Val. And shortly afterwards, space was somehow made for me in the seat across the aisle from her. That early kindness set the pattern, + we found ourselves surrounded by friendly + helpful people. One of them spoke some English, so we were able to communicate a little. He gave us a melon each, as well as tomatoes. This latter went down well, livening up a sandwich we made with spam + steamed bread. It’s remarkable how these things can seem so wonderful. We had some tinned oranges too, which was fortunate, since for once there was no hot water to be had, + we were desperate thirsty.
Arriving in Xining at about 4, we were most apprehensive. On current form we should take 3 or 4 hrs to find the hotel, persuade them to let us stay, + finally relax. So it was quite simply unbelievable when there was not the most silent whisper of a problem. We had a sketch map of the town, which led us directly to the cheaper of the town’s 2 hotels. It looked suspiciously like a Chinese hotel to us, + we were envisioning being directed round to the Tourist hotel, but then we spotted a sign giving the rates for various categories of people, including foreigners. Sure enough, we were handed over the mandatory registration forms to be filled in, + were shown to our room, neat + clean, with 4 beds. As soon as we were left alone, we hugged each other + danced for delight.
It was a beautiful evening, bright + sunny, but with no heat haze, so the mountains around the town stood out, brown velvet against a blue background. We went for a walk along the Main high st, looking out for regional differences. We’d heard there were lots of Tibetan people in town, but couldn’t see any. The main difference apparent was a lot of muslim people, the women wearing what can best be described as a black lace balaclava, extending down to their shoulders, the men with white muslim caps + wispy goatee beards. We did our usual trick of calling in at lots of shops – food shops + dept stores are our favourites – mainly to check out what goods they have to offer, occasionally buying something. Ma Ling, the main Chinese brand name for tinned goods, seem to have the oddest distribution system, whereby the different varieties are sent to different cities, so that each place, instead of being able to offer a variety, specialise in one particular item. At Lanchow, it was Ma Ling tomato ketchup, Xining offered Ma Ling baked beans, + we vowed to buy a small stock.
For the present tho’, we took our evening meal at an establishment which advertised itself on a noticeboard as the San Dining Room – Chinese + Western food. We chose to eat Chinese, + had an excellent meal, tho’ a shade expensive. We strolled back in the fading daylight – China has no time zones, so the further west we go, the later the sunsets. It was wonderfully balmy, the perfect evening, just the weather for strawberries + cream, lager + lime. So it was appropriate that we should listen to the ladies’ singles final from Wimbledon. There was nearly an upset at first, when Chris Lloyd took the first 3 games, + near as dammit won the 4th. But then Martina Navratilova remembered she was invincible, + promptly punished her opponent for her impertinence.
The plus side to having problems with bureaucracy is that, when for once everything works out perfectly smoothly, one feels especially blessed. And this particular day does seem to have been especially balmy. We seem to have reached the stage where we are coping much better with life here, and enjoying it so much more as a result.
