July 27th 1984

The return journey to Urumqi is always completed by the 3rd night, making this our last day on the bus.  It was uneventful.  Andrew was put off at a barren-looking junction.  I felt a little sorry for him, hoping for his sake someone would make sure he got on the Turfan bus alright.  We played several games of crib, Val turning up a remarkable streak of luck, beating me 4 to 1.  I almost enjoyed the day, but Val, being far more uncomfortable during the long bus journeys, was somewhat tetchy.  However, at about 7.30 we rolled into Urumqi bus stn, + the ordeal was over.  And since it was a town we already knew, there was no problem about making our way to the hotel, an immense relief.  This time I was able to get one of the 3.50 beds, tho’ there were none available for women.  On the debit side, I discovered that one of my room-mates was a dick of a Kiwi I had already taken a disliking to when we shared a room in Kashgar.  One of the perils of the gringo trail.

The hotel does not provide showers for we paupies, unfortunately, but there is running hot water, so we were able to wash some of the dust from our bodies, before going out to find something to eat.  We were rather late, so there was not much available, but happily we chanced upon a local noodle restaurant, who were able to dish up a couple of plates of their speciality.  We had been told these places only served greasy fried noodles, but it’s not true.  There are 2 dishes: a thick soup, + dish not unlike a spaghetti Bolognese, with a fried meat + vegetable sauce on top of a large plate of plain boiled noodles.  When it’s good, it’s very good.

And our ordeal was over. Not too painful, really; one simply has to sit and wait. A huge relief that I have really taken to the food, especially after my initial concerns, and am gradually replacing some of the weight I lost in Indonesia in particular.

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