April 18th 1984

Chiang Kai-Shek

In comparison, today was remarkably uneventful.  We breakfasted in a leisurely manner upon our cheese + biscuits before returning to the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial, this time armed with our camera.  It wasn’t the best of conditions for photography, being a grey + foggy day, but we wanted one or 2 of our own to complement the set of blue-skied postcards we’d bought yesterday.  But having taken a couple, plus one of the presidential offices (which looks for all the world like Newham Public Baths) we rushed back to the hotel.  Last night, we had made an arrangement to ring Tony or Mr Ng at a particular no.  We couldn’t remember exactly why, but thought it was fairly important to do so, especially since Mr Ng had our return ticket.  So it only increased our anxiety when we weren’t able to contact anyone who spoke English at the given no.  So we packed up our bags + moved down to the hotel lobby, where we sat, using as much patience as we could muster.  We needn’t have worried, of course – it wasn’t likely that the Lion organisation would leave 2 of their operatives adrift in Taiwan – he turned up in good time, took us first around to his flat, where we were given the airline tickets, the empty bags, + enough money to pay our Taiwan departure tax (+ then some.)  He also showed us how to alter the time, date + day on our new watches.  Not as simple as it might appear, + something that had been disturbing us a little – even with $25 watches, one wants them to work.

We were then taken to the station, + were given our tickets for the limousine bus to the airport.  We’ve been surprised at how we’ve been handed everything, when we thought it would be a struggle.  We passed thro’ the airport formalities with no trouble at all (as so we should expect, being entirely legal.)  The flight too was uneventful – we were flying this time with China Airlines – + had a tasty chicken dish.  The formalities at the other end were dealt with in no time, tho’ Val did get a raised eyebrow or 2 when the customs official discovered her bag was empty.  Mine was chalked X without a murmur.  After a snack or 2, back at the jolly + exciting Chungking Mansions.

Val went to bed, but I was feeling restless, so sat around, drank a little beer, + eventually fell into a conversation with my fellow-travellers.  There was Ray, the drunken East-Ender that I’d put to bed the other night; the girl he was trying very hard to pull – Mel, an Irish girl (tho’ she didn’t sound it); the guy she was obviously far more interested in – Paul, just finished uni, pleasant, intelligent, sense of humour; + for a time Peter, the German who hadn’t made it to Taiwan.  I didn’t mention him, but he had a hell of a time yesterday.  He’d checked his bags in on a later flight than ours, but for some reason it had been delayed.  In the meantime, the pair of customs guys in Taipei had gone off duty.  He rang up Lion from the departure lounge, who told him to get himself + his bags (which by now were on the plane,) back thro’ immigration.  So he span some yarn about having missed a vital appointment in Taipei, + it now being a waste of time for him to go, + after a couple of hours of heavy sweating, he managed it.  The only good thing for him was that he was paid for not having to go, but I reckon he earned his money.  Naturally, this experience formed the basis of our conversation, which generally revolved around smuggling in general.  Mel + Paul had both done a trip to Taipei; Mel, Ray + Peter had all contemplated a Nepal trip sufficiently to go for a “fitting”, a practice run at cramming a kilo + a half of gold up your bum.  Mel, indeed, was more or less committed to a trip in the near future, + was hugely nervous about it all.  I, naturally, kept quiet about my own forthcoming production, partly because I’d been asked to keep quiet, partly because secrecy made obvious sense.  We sat + talked + drank beer + talked; + from time to time someone would pop downstairs for more beer (from the 16th floor, no small feat.)

Eventually, at some hour I know not when, it was decided to go for a drink, to a bar called the Four Sisters.  I was led by Mel, Paul + Ray following after – I don’t know why.  Mel didn’t exactly get us lost, but she was uncertain of the way, + having had a few drinks, I suffered in a mild way from the paranoia that most drugs seem to produce in me.  However, we made it, + passed an enjoyable… time?  I’ve no idea how long.  I had a couple of pints, played the juke box, talked with Paul, danced with Mel, consoled Ray when she indicated a clear preference for Paul.  He was still amazing – I’ve never known someone pursue such a hopeless cause using such antiquated weapons – “I’ve notice you’ve been staring at me.  We should get together + talk about these feelings you have for me.” – but perhaps that was part of his charm.  In every other respect – the physical, the intellectual – he had nothing going for him at all.  But I shouldn’t be catty.)  And eventually (Ray had already left, I think – perhaps disappointed, certainly drunk) Mel + Paul led me home.  There was no possibility I could have made it on my own, being both drunk + disoriented.  It was an enormous shock, walking out of the bar, to discover it was daylight.  Have I ever drunk the night thro’ before?  I don’t think so.  We’d lost our beds, having spent the night in Taiwan, +I didn’t think it was worth disturbing Val, who was asleep on a mattress somewhere, so I went into the lounge, climbed onto the settee, removing only my shoes, + tried to sleep.  I was quite drunk.

After yesterday’s excitement, something of an anti-climax, back to the mundanity of everyday life in Hong Kong; especially as we have no real purpose to take up our time, it is really rather dull. And it does seem to encourage in me a sort of lassitude, not able to motivate myself even to go to bed.

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