One of the nice things to do when in Srinagar, or at least one of the things recommended by the Blessed Tony, is to take a day-long shikara ride around the lake. Or lakes, in fact, as there are 3 in all. However, because of our usual laziness, by the time we had breakfasted it was already past 10, + later still by the time we had called in at the photographers to see if the film I had shot with the Yashica in Burma had been developed yet, it was even later.
It was no trouble hiring a shikara. When they discovered you wanted them for the day, you could, if you were hard-headed enough, hire them for whatever price you cared to name. Our shikara was called the Speed King, our chauffeur youngish, + with some English. He reeled off a great list of places we would be going to, which meant little or nothing to us, of course, + away we went. There could be no complaints about the comfort. The shikara all advertised “fully-sprung seats”, but really they were floating beds – luxurious to the point of lasciviousness. I shan’t go into detail about the day, hour by hour, save to say that it was immensely pleasant + relaxing to be paddled around for the greater part of the day. Val had not been too enthusiastic about this project previously, but she took to it well enough. We indulged ourselves with walnuts + fondant cream dipped in chocolate, bought from another passing shikara (“I am a delicious man,” he told us as he drew alongside. And he was.)
We got off + went briefly ashore at around lunchtime for a cup of coffee. And we got off + looked around a small picnic island with 4 huge chinar trees in the middle of one lake. Otherwise we lay back + enjoyed it. There were too many salesmen, of course, but all of them received a firm but polite no… or several nos in most cases. And towards the end we had a disagreement with our paddler about a place we thought we should be going to, + he didn’t. He insisted it was too far, + since he at least could claim expert knowledge, + even more important was the one in charge of the shikara, there was little we could do about it. It was a shame, tho’, for that incident marred an otherwise splendid outing.
Economic reality prevailed once again in the evening, however, + we had to think once again about selling the camera. The sad fact was that we were desperately short of money, certainly of rupees, not having enough to pay Sultan + get us back to Delhi. So we would either have to sell something before we went, or change some money. This latter course we were reluctant to do, not having all that many dollars either. It shouldn’t cost all that much to get home from Pakistan, but then we really don’t have a lot of money. And since the Man in the smart blue blazer was the only likely buyer we had, we felt we had to continue with him, as much as we disliked him personally. So off we trotted (alright, paddled, then trotted), tho’ with no great hopes, to try again the ploy we’d been going to play last night. Once again, I skirted the place quickly, + went on to have a coffee in the small café, + wait for Val. She arrived eventually, but one quick glance at her face was enough to tell me she hadn’t been successful. The brother had not been there apparently, + tho’ she had waited some time he still hadn’t turned up, so she had come to eat, saying she would return later. When she did so, the shop was shut up… so that was that. The worst thing was that the Man had seemed cock-a-hoop about our return – this obviously proved he was the one in control. We dragged ourselves back to the boat even more despondent than we had been last night. Money worries are frightful, especially when one is far from home.
The ride round the lake was delightful, the economic worries, and our failed attempts to address them, less so. But it is good to see that we are giving serious consideration to the final part of our journey.
Reminds me of a ride I took just outside Mexico City at Xochimilco. They also had floating drink boats, where one could buy a cooling drink. We even went through a lock, watching the water rise up to the next lake, then fall on our way back. So relaxing. Too bad about the camera fiasco. I hope you sell it soon!