We had to be out at the airport at 4.30 – ridiculously early for a 7 o’clock flight, but there you go. And since the bus to take us out there left town at 3.30, we really didn’t have much more than the morning left. So, of course, Val went into town again to finish off the shopping, while I set to work on the packing, before going to the 2nd of the Brecht lectures – this one on the plays themselves. Val met me outside afterwards, clearly much better pleased with her morning’s work, having collected, more or less, everything she still wanted, + equally important, having spent almost all the money, leaving just enough rupees for lunch, getting out to the airport, etc. So everything was stowed away, we shouldered our bags – including our new acquisition, a shoulder bag for carrying more valuable articles, which we don’t wish to consign to the tops of buses, holds of aircraft, etc – + walked into town. We split up for lunch, having different priorities regarding what we fancied as our final Indian meal. Val wanted one more bite at Nirula’s all-you-can-eat salad bar, while I fancied omelette + toast at a small café we had been in once or twice. Neither were particularly Indian, + both, typically, were a little disappointing.
We met up again in the middle of Connaught Circus, having both checked our mail in the meantime. There was only one letter between us on this occasion, from, of all people, Marion. We had virtually no time left now, so Val rushed off to buy herself a pair of sandals, then back just in time for the bus.
Delhi airport was the same as any international airport, antiseptic + dull, our time there meaningless + absurd. The flight itself too was uneventful, slightly better than anticipated, in that we were fed. I was doubly fed, because Val had smuggled out 8 filled salad rolls, of which I ate the lion’s share.
On arriving at Lahore, my immediate concern was for our bags, having heard many stories of inefficiency and/or theft. And indeed, some of this would have seemed to have been borne out by the oddest collection of items torn from, or fallen out of, the bags. It was only when we looked at some of those bags that we were slightly amazed that more stuff hadn’t come adrift, with so many of them not much more than cloth bundles knotted at the top. Looking just like they were arriving at a railway station rather than an international airport. As indeed they would have done were it not for the land border being closed.
Our 2 bags finally arrived safe + intact, + the rest of the business, tho’ hectic, was a mere formality. While Val changed some money, I chatted with the tourist information man, who was very helpful, providing us with a map + much basic information about the city. He seemed very disappointed when I let it slip that we would be leaving again almost immediately. He told us the number of the bus we had to catch to take us to the YMCA, which worked out very well, tho’ it was a bit of a shock when we found we had to be separated, Val in the woman’s section in front, me in the rear, with a heavy wire mesh partition between.
Lahore impressed us a good deal – wide, well-paved, well-lit streets, impressive modern buildings, everything clean. A relief after the dirt, dust + squalor of India. There was no difficulty getting a room in the YMCA – friendly staff. In fact, everyone we’ve met so far in Pakistan has been friendly. It’s been quite a shock – we’re wondering when the hassles will begin. We decided to celebrate our arrival with a cup of coffee, but quickly discovered that coffee was far too expensive, so opted for tea instead. That too was pricey, simply because we are in a pricey place, but the service + style made it worth it, with tea-pot, water pot, milk, sugar, tea-strainer, + big chunky cups + saucers. The cups were rinsed out with boiling water in our presence – it made a nice change to be waited on properly.
And so, on our way again, at last. And despite our misgivings, Pakistan proving – so far – much better than we expected. After all, Val had experienced her fair (or unfair) share of harassment in India, so it was not as though this was likely to be an even worse experience.
