Thankfully, I was so exhausted that the worst mattress I have ever encountered did not prevent me from getting a good night’s sleep. Val was less fortunate – she is still ill, + to add injury to injury was plagued by mosquitoes. However, strolled straight round to the First Class bus terminal, and tho’ it’s true we didn’t get seats for the very first bus which left town, we were able to reserve seats – reserve seats! – on the second, at 11.30. In the meantime, we passed a civilised morning in a nearby Chemists(?), drinking coffee. Rather later than I should have done, I trotted off to the bank to change some more money, + because of the slowness of such places – Mexican banks seem to require 3 people to look at a travellers’ cheque before they’ll give you any money, + as for queues… well, I made it back for the bus.
An amazingly comfortable bus it was too – I was almost disappointed the ride wasn’t to be for longer. Strangely tho’, Val, who is not a good coach traveller at the best of times, felt worse on this bus than she had on far less luxurious ones – she says she felt claustrophobic.
Arrived in San Cristobal at about 1.30, + fortunately met a guy who could give us a recommendation + directions to Casa Margarita, a casa de huespuedes we’d heard of before. Not too long a walk from the bus station, + then fortunately there was a room for us in the casa. It was very cheap too – only 70 pesos per person. First we took advantage of their wonderful hot showers, then the washing was done – 2 especially important jobs for us in particular, having been on the beach for a week. Later, we went to stroll around a little, + then to eat. However, because of a monumental cock-up at the restaurant, we didn’t receive our food in time, for at 8 we were going to see some folk dancing. That was magnificent – such colour, such energy. A really wonderful show.
Val is still the one who attracts all the mosquitoes – and most other insects actually – which makes her a valuable companion. And she continued to find luxurious buses much worse than cheap ones; somethig to do with the high-backed seats which seem to hem her in. And we finished the day with some culture. Our suspicion is that it was more tourist fodder than authentic folk dancing, but clearly we enjoyed it.