December 14th 1981

posted in: Innocents Abroad | 0
Zipolite

So there we were, still 10 kms – + more – to go, in a strange bus station, a bus station with very little to it at that, not even a waiting room… fortunately, it was a warm night.  It was very difficult to find out how to get to Puerto Angel, but it seemed we caught a taxi – so that was what we did.  We climbed into it in the dark, + emerged in the light, 40 pesos poorer.  It was just about all we could do to stagger over to the beach with our bags, under the watchful eyes of the navy – they had a station there – lay out our sleeping bags, + collapse into a deep sleep.

3 hours later we awoke, sweaty + crochety – we still had our night clothes on, our Oaxaca clothes on, + it was the start of a hot day now.  Both of us now in a bad-tempered mood, we dragged ourselves + bags back onto the road, + there Val left me while she went off to the Post Office with our box of goodies for home.  I made the acquaintance of some Germans sitting in a café across the road, + eventually Val returned from a fruitless journey, since it hadn’t been a PO at all, just a telegraph office.  We checked out the price of a taxi to Zipolite + then decided to walk, since it was only 3 kms or so.

It was still a long, hot walk, + we were more than relieved when we reached the beach.  A guy on the beach offered us a cabin, + the first 2 open cafes on the beach both did the same, so it didn’t look as tho’ we would have any trouble with accommodation.  Had a beautiful couple of pepsis, then walked along the beach to Gloria’s, since it was the place we’d been recommended to, but I think we just jumped at the offer to be rid of our bags for a while.  Gloria’s was a remarkable place – just like a sort of Robinson Crusoe retreat set up on the cliffs at the far end of the beach.  It was all so cool + civilised – with nice furniture, + books, + games, all covered with thatch, or palm fronds.  We rented a small room, with board beds, then collected our bags, then swam – gorgeous, divine, perfect water.  Swam some more, + ate a good meal in the evening, by candlelight.

Gloria’s had pretty much established Zipolite as a holiday destination, by being the first to set up shop.  Pretty much our first experience of such a place, specifically aimed at the Western tourist, with hibiscus water, banana pancakes, etc.

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