(Yes, I did think of naming this post “Food Glorious Food”, but decided that was a step too far. Maybe I’m growing up.)
Apologies to those anticipating a paean to Greek food. Not my favourite cuisine, I’m afraid, but it’s not as though I’ve really given it a chance; my first three meals here were burger, pizza and pasta (and none were very good.) I’m prepared to be convinced, however, and did enjoy the various dips, salads and platters at Miki’s birthday meal.
Except when going there to watch the football, I tend to avoid the large cafes which ring the harbour. My favourite two haunts are those that Joel (previous Better Days administrator) took me to when I visited in February. The first is the Mousiko Kaferieio, though it did take me some time to find it again, as it has changed beyond recognition in the intervening months, the dark but cosy coffee house throwing open its doors to light and air with the approach of summer, and spilling out (as all the cafes here do) onto the pavement. Absolutely my favourite place for breakfast.
The other is Pi (as in the Greek letter) close to Sappho Square on the harbourfront. Joel told me that, during a pitched and bloody battle between local fascists and antifa sometime last year, (I am guessing not in the tourist season), it became an impromptu field hospital, and so earned his loyalty. By osmosis, mine too.
I do like the way that all restaurants and cafes here present you with a glass of water as soon as you sit down, and often a plate of biscuits too (as opposed to the one that appears with coffee back home.) Not that I eat them, in either place. I also like the way the bill arrives with your order – taped to the table, or attached to a clothes peg, or scrunched up in a liqueur glass.
However, especially after that rather dispiriting first few days, I tend to cook and eat at home, and avoid sitting alone in the restaurant. Student food mostly: spag bol, chili, scrambled egg. All delicious.